Tribasia Blog

We spent the rest of our stay in Laos in the western part of the country.
Time and time again, we used our legs as tools of mass discovery by trekking through hilly rural sceneries. Dirt roads, jungle trails and field paths often lead to hidden treasures of ethnic life and nature. We thus killed two birds in one stone by keeping fit and being eco-friendly. :))

We came across new groups such as the Lahu Musur but also refugees such as Hmong people. The Musur (also called Muser) appear extremely shy but good-natured while the Hmong seem secretive and proud. Both groups live at higher altitude.
The Laho's appearance (physical features and traditional dress) reminded us of some ethnic groups in southern China, which can be easily explained by the fact that they initially migrated from this part of the world.
We also met again various sub-groups of Akha and Thai people as well as Hor.

On our last day, we ditched walking for hitchhiking to make it on time to cross the border. We found ourselves at the back of an open-roof van tucked between bags and veggies. We enjoyed a 360-degree view of mountainous landscapes while going up a winding road and being driven through sharp turns. Many of those... but nothing better than some fresh air to prevent road sickness ;0)

As our visas expire today, we've had to cross over to Thailand and leave Laos behind. We would really have loved to extend our stay there but we have to prepare for our next destination in the coming days.

More on the forthcoming entry ;0)

Labels: Black Hmong, ethnic diversity, Lahu Musur, Laos, Trekking

We were back on our feet for a long trek yesterday, south of Sa Pa (Northern Vietnam). We first went to Lao Chai, a Black Hmong village located in a very scenic valley. Beyond the beautiful rice fields, we spotted vast areas of maize and hemp cultures.

Hemp was introduced following the interdiction of opium by the authorities. To which extent this is successful, we cannot really say as the lush greenery of the mountains is an easy hideout for plants of any kind...
Hemp is of course used for clothing. Many Black Hmong women can be seen with strands of hemp on their shoulders which they prepare for weaving. The typical weaving machine consists of a wooden wheel around which the threads of hemp are rolled. The wheel is actioned by foot, just like a bicycle.

We also came across lots of Red Dzao -whenever you see Black Hmong in Sa Pa area, there seems to be a Red Dzao village just nearby.

We continued our walk towards the village of Ta Van, the home of Dzay people, also called Giay.
Please have a look at our 'Ethnic Groups' section (http://www.tribasia.com/ethnic-groups.html) for further information about this group.

From Ta Van to Giang Ta Chai, a Dzao village further south, we were escorted by an unsolicited trio of Black Hmong women. One of them sported a red dot on her forehead. We had already spotted a few babies and women in the market with these marks and were curious about its meaning. Was it a sign of protection as in the Hindu religion?
The eldest of the three women told me that Black Hmong actually applied a freshly boiled cut buffalo horn on their forehead to cure them of diseases. The best placebo on earth no doubt. With medical means out of reach -either financially or logistically- for many minorities, many resort to traditional methods.

We trekked all the way back from Giang Ta Chai up to Sa Pa with the sunlight bathing the valley of its fading light. A beautiful sight!

All in all it was a sunny day full of wonderful views and without any hassle. What best!
After these 25 kms walk, we are ready to put our feet up :))

Labels: Black Hmong, Dzay, Lao Chai, northern Vietnam, Red Dzao, Sa Pa, Ta Van

On 14th June, we took the mini-bus from Sin Ho to Lai Chau (North Vietnam), a 60 kms ride up and down a narrow mountain road. All was going well until the bus started to stink with a smell of alcohol.

One of the passengers at the back had the bright idea to have a few servings of his home-brewed tipple and was probably too drunk to notice that one of our bags was under his feet. Great!
We arrived with an alcohol-scented bagpack!

We had to spend the night in Lai Chau as we missed the last bus. It is a proper town and people here have long assimilated Kinh (=Viet) ways of dressing, except for Hmongs coming from their surrounding mountain villages.

On 15th June, we left Lai Chau by mini-bus to go back to Sa Pa where we have a few more areas we wanted to have a look at. After all these bus rides, we start by resting for a good few days! See you!

Labels: Black Hmong, Lai Chau, northern Vietnam, Sa Pa, Sin Ho

On 12th June, we went riding around Dien Bien Phu as planned. Although many minority villages can be easily spotted from the road, not all are within reach. You often have to ride up dirt roads and zigzag to avoid holes and rocks before getting anywhere close.

Thai villages are easier to visit as they are often based alongside main roads, in the valley.
We rode more than 25 kms away from Dien Bien towards the Lao border. We crossed a Thai settlement and decided to enter by crossing a suspended bridge.
Although our visit was unnannounced, we felt welcome. A group of young Thais invited us to share some sour mango. They were curious of our appearances and laughed at the pictures we made of them.

However, within 15 minutes of our arrival, two policemen, probably residing in the village, asked us to leave. We are still not sure if we were beyond permitted land or too close to the border for their taste but we had to comply.

On the way back, we spotted a Hmong village sitting on a hill top. How did we know it was a Hmong village? Well, because Hmong women were waiting down the dirt track at the foot of the village. Besides, even from a distance, the houses' structure looked very much typical of the Hmong (compacted mud walls, etc.).
We decided to venture into the village. This is not a decision we took lightly as Hmong villages are ALWAYS populated with rabid dogs.

We were lucky enough this time that dogs gave us a break. We were able to chat with a few Hmong women sitting in front of their houses with their young children. The Hmong of this area adorn their black headdress with colourful pompoms (mostly pink or orange), a colourful top whose long sleeves' pattern (stripes) differ from that of the body (flowery motives) and a black silky skirt.

We then headed back to Dien Bien for a well-deserved rest. On 13th June, we have to wake up very early...

Labels: Black Hmong, Dien Bien Phu, North Vietnam, pompoms, Thai Tay, villages

We arrived at dusk in Dien Bien Phu, Western Vietnam, on 11th June. This town is famed as a historical battle site which witnessed the defeat of the French colonial forces at the hands of the Viet Minh in 1954 . However, the focus of our visit here remains the minority groups.

Dien Bien is 34 kms away from Laos. When exploring the local markets in town, we met many Black Thai, also known as Thai Tay. Black Thai women look taller than their Viet fellows with their long black skirts, silky long-sleeve tops and towering headdress.

The Black Thai, both men and women, are easy to approach. They are not weary of curious foreigners and happy to smile back.

This group is actually similar in appearance to the Tai Dam from Laos. If you explore the 'Ethnic Groups' section of this website, you will be able to gather further information about this minority under the 'Laos' country tab.

We also witnessed a few Hmongs going around town. They also seem less aggressive in this area - possibly the Lao influence on people... who knows?

Today, we are off exploring the surroundings of Dien Bien and take a closer look at Black Thai and Hmong villages. Back on the bike for a bumpy ride ;0)

P.S. For those of you wishing to get more information about the Battle of Dien Bien Phu, please check the following link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Dien_Bien_Phu

Labels: battle, Black Hmong, Black Thai, Dien Bien Phu, Laos, minorities, Tai Tay

Labels: Black Hmong, northern Vietnam, Red Dzao, rice planting, rice terraces, Sa Pa