Tribasia Blog

We went visiting Menghun market, Xishuangbanna, southern China, in the hope of coming across new groups.
We came across Akha, a sister group of the Hani, as well as a few Lahu people and a couple of Bulang women. Some of them were sporting their traditional costumes but the most surprising of all groups' attire were the Dai' s.

We witnessed groups of women in matching coloured short-length tops and feet-long narrow tubular skirts going about the market. Their hair was coiffed in a bun or/and a flattened piece of hair at the back, held by dozens of carefully placed pins whose shape seemed to mimic an open fan. Colourful brooches were providing this hairdo its final feminine touch. The silky material and intricate design of the dresses they wore were astounding compared to that of the Dai people we had seen in other parts of this region. Groups of women were all fitted in purple, others all in red, others again in yellow with green designs... a rainbow of colours and a great display of the Dai wealth.

We were aware that market day is of great importance to locals but we were highly puzzled. Why dressing up so ostentatiously to go and browse the stalls?
We found the answer when we left the market and followed a group of Dai women.

Dai people are Hinayana Buddhists (whereas China's majority follows Mahayana Buddhism) and these ladies were going to the temple. We left our shoes by the entrance (customary for Dai women). As soon as we got in, we realized that a celebration was under way: a peacock chariot was being adorned with white flowers -albeit plastic ones- offerings were laid inside the temple and hundreds of people (mostly Dai) seemed to be waiting for something major to happen.

Waiting for what? All temple-goers knelt down and bowed at once. A four-wheel drive was driving through the temple gates, and another, and another. The passengers got out. Here was the answer we had been waiting for: A very senior monk and other high-ranking religious figures were visiting the temple and lead the day's prayers. The locals wanted to show their fervent faith by giving them a ceremonial welcome.

Following the prayers, the peacock chariot was pulled out of the temple with the help of a line formed by monks and two others by civil men. Behind the chariot, Dai women were forming a parade whose array of colours were mimicking the peacock feathers. The groups we had seen earlier in the market were each forming part of this colourful display. All ladies danced gracefully at the strum of traditional bronze and long drums. The parade went round the small community before heading back to where it started, the temple.

We left Menghum not so much under the spell of his market as his Dai impromptu celebration. That was a good surprise which left us with sparkling eyes and a big smile!

Labels: Asia, Buddhism, China, Dai, Markets, Menghun, peacock, temple