Tribasia Blog

We left Hanoi on 9th May and headed in the overnight train northwest to the village of Bac Ha in Lao Cai province. This place is famed for its huge Sunday market where all local indigenous groups -and unfortunately, hordes of tourists on express tours- come to sell, buy and bargain it all.

The market is divided in several areas: one for trading water buffalos, horses, pigs and dogs (yes, dog is not only a man's best friend here but it also makes a toothy security guard and at times a good supper!), another for handicrafts and souvenir, another still for local firewater brews (made from rice, cassava or corn) and a meat, vegetable and fruit market. You can also encounter traditional medicine doctors, saddlers, blacksmiths and of course hairdressers: a healthy man with a well-saddled horse is nothing without a good haircut after all :))

The market is a good representation of the demographics of the minority population in the vicinity. The Flower Hmong, whose women are highly recognizable with their richly embroidered skirts, puttees and tops, flood the market with electric colours. Other minorities such as the Dzao, Tai and Phula are less numerous and wear more subtle attires. They are also more camera shy and weary of foreigners.

Although we only witnessed 5 different groups this Sunday, a total of 10 Montagnard groups are living in the area, namely the Flower Hmong, Dzao (or Dao), the Giay (also called Nhang), Han (also called Hoa), Xa Fang, Lachi, Nung, Tai, Phula and Thulao.

Bac Ha market is the biggest market in the area but not the only one as there are three others on Sundays. There is also a popular market in Can Cau on Saturdays and another in Coc Ly district on Tuesdays. In a nutshell, open-air markets are central to the life of 'hill tribes'.

After an exciting day among chaotic stalls and ethnic crowds, we decided to stay beyond the colourful Sunday market to get acquainted further with the local people and Bac Ha surroundings. Tomorrow, we are off trekking!

Labels: Bac Ha, ethnic minorities, hill tribes, Lao Cai, Markets, northern Vietnam